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Proper Hydration For Peak Performance

by Todd Butler

One of the most commonly overlooked performance issues for people participating in outdoor activities is dehydration. With some basic planning and the establishment of an effective Hydration plan it can be avoided and you will perform at your best.

The human body is roughly 2/3 water. Water is necessary for proper function of the organs, joints and muscles. Dehydration occurs when the body is losing more water than it is taking in. We lose water several ways including the simple acts of breathing, sweating, and going to the bathroom. It can also be heightened by illnesses such as vomiting and diarrhea and medical issues such as diabetes or severe burns. Starting your workout dehydrated reduces the amount of fluid circulating in your bloodstream and bathing your body's cells. Less circulating fluid makes your heart work harder during exercise, which drives up your heat production. It also limits your body's ability to produce cooling sweat. The result: your body's core temperature rises faster and endurance suffers.

The level of water loss necessary to cause dehydration issues for most people is surprisingly low. The loss of as little as 2% of the bodies total fluid can cause minor dehydration, loss of 5% is classed as serious dehydration and the loss of 10% of total body fluid requires immediate medical attention and can be fatal.

In reviewing the symptoms note fatigue, increased respiration, increased heart rate and muscle cramps especially. Those are conditions which are generally not signs of good shooting. So how do we avoid becoming dehydrated, you ask??? It is actually very simple drink more WATER!!!

The key to avoiding dehydration is to have a good hydration plan prior to starting exercise. It should consist of 3 parts pre-hydration, hydration, and rehydration.

Pre-hydration takes place before you ever start to sweat. Drink plenty of fluids during the 24-hour period before an event, especially during the meal before exercise. (Plenty of fluids doesn’t include alcohol) Ideally it should consist of water and some form of sports drink. Consume 14 to 20 ounces of fluid about two hours before exercise to stay hydrated and allow time to excrete any excess water.

Hydration during exercise, means drinking to your sweat rate. Drink early and often to replace water lost through sweating. For strenuous exercise lasting longer than one hour, drink liquids that contain four to eight percent carbohydrates and approximately .5-.7 grams of sodium per liter of water. This will help fight fatigue and replace what you lose sweating. (Think Gatorade or any of the seemingly endless number of sports drinks available.) It is important to replace carbohydrates and sodium lost during exercise in order to prevent Hyponatermia, which occurs when you lose salt and fluids through sweat, but only replace the fluid. It typically affects athletes whose water consumption over several hours far exceeds the amount of sweat they lose. As a result, they experience a dangerous electrolyte imbalance caused by low blood sodium levels. This can lead to disorientation, confusion, seizures, and even death. Unfortunately, the signs of hyponatremia can be difficult to distinguish from heat exhaustion or heat stroke. This is why we need a well thought out hydration plan that provides not too much, but just the right amount of fluid to match sweat loss.

Rehydration is extremely important but generally overlooked. It is more than replacing the amount of fluid you lose—it also means replacing the electrolytes (primarily sodium) that you lose in sweat. If you weigh and then re-hydrate with 16 ounces of fluid for every pound you lose, you'll quickly restore your fluid balance. This is important in hot, humid weather. If you are going to be going back out you need to beginning rehydration as soon as possible.

In order to compete at your best you need to be fully prepared. A key element of that preparation is a smart hydration plan. Start well hydrated, carry plenty of fluids, drink early and often, use a combination of water and flavored sports drinks and above all, don’t ignore the signs of dehydration. If you recognize them take steps to fix them.

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Hunting Knives

by Todd Butler

There are few items of hunting equipment as personal as the knife you choose to carry in the field. Over the years I have carried a wide variety of knives from different manufacturers and makers. Some were very expensive and others were not. When selecting my knives I look for the following things:

Generally I carry 3 different blades when I go to the field The first blade is a fixed skinning knife. Over the years I have carried knives made by several different companies including Gerber and Kershaw. As I have stated in previous articles, growing up in Oregon in the 1970’s your first hunting knife was usually a Gerber. I still have the one I received; it is a 901 drop point with a leather sheath. It is still an excellent knife which holds an edge very well and is easy to sharpen. The skinning knife I carry most often now is a Kershaw drop point. I have had it since 1989 and have skinned many animals with it over the years. I like it due to its compact size. The blade is only 3” long but has a deep belly and is very strong. It also has a finger cutout in the blade which is very useful for fine work. The handle is made of a durable, easy to grip rubber material which doesn’t get slick from blood. It holds its edge for a long time and sharpens easily. Other good quality fixed blade hunting knife manufacturers include Buck, Ontario and Ka-Bar. Prices from these manufacturers are generally in the $70-$125 range.

There are also numerous high quality custom makers out there offering all kinds of designs. Some I am familiar with include Chris Reeves, Larry Downing, Bill Buchman and Randall Knives. For her birthday this year, I gave Karen a Larry Downing knife. It is a beautiful knife, well made and extremely sharp. It was reasonably priced at $250 and he delivered it in less than 2 months. It is the knife used to skin out her big whitetail buck. It did the job very nicely and retained its edge well. http://downingknives.com

When our sons turned 18 they each received a Randall Model #27 Trailblazer knife. These are classic, well made knives which will last many generations if properly cared for, however they are pricey at around $350 and there is a 3 year wait from time of order to delivery, but it is well worth the price and the wait as they are truly a classic. http://www.randallknives.com

The second knife I carry is a folder in my pocket. I have several I carry depending on my mood. I recommend a good quality liner lock model with a 3 inch blade. I prefer the liner lock models to the traditional lock-back style folders due to the greater strength of the locking mechanism. They are less likely to fail under extreme use. There are numerous high quality manufacturers such as Benchmade, Columbia River Knife Technologies, Cold Steel, and Spyderco. They all offer a wide variety of blades in the $75-$150 price range. I recommend a blade made from ATS-34 stainless steel. It is a high grade stainless steel which is durable, fairly easy to sharpen and retains an edge through hard use. For the edge I like a combination of straight edge with a partial serration. The straight edge is useful for slicing and the serrated edge is excellent for cutting rope.

The last knife I generally carry is a multi-tool such as a Gerber Multiplier or a Leatherman. I always have one either on my belt or in my pack. They are versatile tools featuring pliers, multiple knife blades, scissors, screwdrivers and punches. Sort of a Swiss Army Knife on steroids. Speaking of the Swiss Army Knife they are still an excellent choice. They are compact, well made and very affordable. A quick word on sheaths, over the years I have carried my knives in a variety of sheath designs and materials. The traditional material and design is a leather belt mount. This is still an excellent choice for most of us, however leather has a tendency to mold or rot when exposed to significant moisture. Over the last decade many makers have replaced leather with nylon. Nylon is a very dependable choice due to its durability and water resistant. Another material which has become popular is kydex. It is a thermoplastic which is highly durable, water resistant and extremely strong. Regardless of the type of sheath material used it should be placed in such a manner that it is comfortable to carry, easily accessible and won’t interfere with movement while hunting or making a shot. The knife a hunter chooses to carry is a highly personal item which needs to be given careful consideration. The right choice will be a trusted, dependable and valued companion for years to come. The wrong one will become the occupier of drawer space never going to the field.

Field Dressing

by Shanna Hillis

First let me say that I am by no means an experienced field dresser. I now have two field dressings to my credit but I love to share and anything that will help another lady get out there and hunt is what I want to do!!

First the most important thing to have is a sharp knife, I don't mean kinda sharp or maybe sharp, it needs to be hair shaving sharp. This makes it so much easier. There is probably a lot of debate as to whether a knife with a gut hook is needed. Personally mine does not have a gut hook and as I explain how I field dress a deer you may understand and can make the choice for yourself if you want a gut hook or not.

It would probably help to have latex gloves however these are not necessary as you will probably have blood up to your elbows till you get the details down to perfection. I was so excited to just having harvested an animal I didn't even put my gloves on!!
Ok, here is how I do it, this is how my husband has taught me and so far he is pretty good at what he does and what he has taught me, not knowing anything about bows or hunting and now being able to find, climb, harvest and field dress my animal is a lot so he gets all the credit!!

Try to position the deer on his back as much as possible. I hook one back leg on either side of my legs. Now comes the fun part. You have to grab his.....mojo.....just take it in your hand and start cutting around the sack on both sides. You will see fat and what looks like a...ummm.....sheath of skin, cut through this, all the way around his privates and down to his anus, without cutting the tube...you will see what I mean once you get into one. Then you start cutting just the layer of hair and skin up towards the throat. Here is a very important part, DO NOT cut deep, what you are doing here is just cutting into the body of the deer to get the guts out, you DO NOT want to puncture the stomach. This will probably help save your lunch!! Once you get his privates cut off, or if it is a doe you will cut her milk bag, the area around her nipples, you will be able to feel just under the layer of skin. It is best if you can put your first two fingers, face up, under the skin with the knife blade between them and slice towards the throat. Take small cuts if you have too, don't rush and make sure you keep the blade away from the gut. You will cut up to the breastbone, now if you are planning on having a shoulder mount this is where the difference comes in as to how far you cut.

For a shoulder mount don't split the breastbone too far, the hair changes color, it is black color that runs up the middle, just do a couple of cuts of the breastbone if you plan to shoulder mount, if not go ahead and cut through the breastbone all the way up, this makes it easier to get all the insides out the farther the cut is. Now the breastbone is tough to cut, hold your knife with both hands and get in the middle of it and just pull up. It will cut it, no problem.

Now comes the fun part!!!

Once you get your main cut you have to go inside and get all the parts seperated. Lay the deer over on one side and open the cavity up, you will see a sheath of skin that connects the insides to the ribs, you have to cut this sheath on both sides, one at a time. This can be a tricky part, there will be lots of blood and it is hard to see inside. Cut this sheath and the you need to go up as far as you can and cut the windpipe. A lot of this has to be done by feel and with a sharp knife and not looking it can be scary. This is why I don't like a gut hook knife, when you get that knife inside that body cavity all it takes is one nick and you can open up the deers stomach which you do not want to do. It can contaminate the meat and it reaks...lol..

Now once you get the sheat cut on one side, windpipe cut then roll him over and cut the sheath on the other side. You really have to feel around inside to be able to cut everything loose that needs to be and it is really a lot of trial and error. Once the sheath is cut on both sides and the windpipe is cut you can start pulling the windpipe and all parts out. You will have to do some trimming along the way to unconnect everything but it will eventually all just roll out.

I know this is a lot of explaining but once you get started you will understand what I am saying. Always try to make sure you have a couple of lights, one that you can put on your head really helps. Of course it is worse at night. There will be lots of blood and lots of new smells if you have never been around it before. I gag and carry on but it is worth it in the end.

These are truly amazing creatures and we owe them the most respect we can give them.
I am by no means an expert as I have only field dressed two deer by myself but I have been the leg holder for a lot of deer my husband has dressed.
The main thing is to take your time, those knives are sharp and if you cut yourself you are gonna bleed a lot. That is what my husband preaches to me, BE CAREFUL!!!! Also make sure your knife is sharp.

I hope this helps and makes your experience in the field a better one!!

Getting Ready to Hunt

By Karen Butler

Hunting season is almost here where I live, and now is the time to really prepare!  I’ve made a list of some things to think about before you go out to hunt –

Equipment – Tune your bow, clean your weapon and site in with your broadheads  or ammo you will be using to hunt, and practice, practice, practice!  Determine your safest distance for shooting before you go out to hunt..is it 20 yards, 30 or 40 for archery?  Inevitably the deer will linger just outside of your comfortable shooting range…that’s part of hunting.

Regulations - Know and refresh yourself on the rules and regulation for the area you are hunting.  Don’t forget to buy the proper license and know what the state you are hunting in requires for proof of sex.  Also, check what is legal to hunt, and know how to distinguish between the animals that are legal and not.

Scent Control – there are tons of products on the market to help mask your scent.  I use scent control detergent and fabric sheets on all my clothes before the hunt…this needs some planning in advance.  For clothes that are line dry, hang them outside but then put them in the dryer and use a scent control dryer sheet on air only.  It is a good idea to run a wet towel through your dryer on high heat without a fabric softener sheet in there to remove the smell of Bounce.  After your clothes are dry, put them in an air tight container… be cautious of plastic garbage bags, some have a scent associated with them.  I’ve had friends that will put pine needles or leaves from where they will hunt in with their clothes; this is ok to do, but make sure there are no bugs or spiders!  No need to take friend hunting with you.  Also, use scent control products for hygiene...wash in scent control soap, shampoo and use scent control deodorant.  When you get to where you are going, spray down with scent eliminator.  Don’t forget the soles of your boots!

Gear –

• Safety First – I carry at a minimum an emergency blanket, a whistle, flag tape, matches, a small first aid kit and water purifying tablets.  Also a length of parachute cord is good to have.  Around 50 feet it is useful for things like pulling your bow into the tree stand, tying down your game for packing, or emergency bootlaces.   If you use a tree stand, then you need a  Hunting Harness….always wear a hunting harness when you set your stand up, climb in and out of your stand, and sit or stand in your tree stand…there are many preventable accidents every year from people just not wearing their tree harnesses. 
• Map – get a topographic map of the area you will be hunting and learn to read it.  Familiarize yourself with landmarks, and carry a compass or a GPS.  And practice with them.  The time to learn land navigation is not when you are actually lost.  If you are directionally challenged (like me) and hiking way back into the woods, then use your flag tape and mark every 10 or 15 yards; so you know how to get out.  Make sure you retrieve it as you return.
• Snacks – think about how your snacks smell….keep them sealed when you are in your stand or blind.
• Water –  I take water not coffee to my tree stand with me.  I sometimes will heat hot water, and drink it for the warmth, but be wary of coffee in your stand…it smells out of the ordinary to the deer….I always get a kick out of people who joke about women who wear a bit of makeup hunting, but then they crack open the big thermos of coffee and pass it around!  By the way, I don’t recommend makeup for the hunt, but I do carry some for the photo after the hunt is over!!!
• Binoculars and a good range finder are helpful.
• Knife – you need a good sharp knife for gutting and skinning your deer.
• Multi-pliers/allen wrenches – you never know when you need to saw a little branch out of your way, or fix something on our bow. 
• Hunting Clothes – make sure you dress for the weather in your hunting area, not the weather at your house.  Dress in layers and have some rain gear available. 
• Game Bag – if you get a deer you need to keep the flies off of it, use a game back to protect your meat.  I recently invested in a Game Bag Cooler system, and am hoping to test it out in a few weeks.

All this preparation will help you be prepared on opening day to go bag your big deer!

Camouflage Make Up or
Cover Your Face 101

by Todd Butler

I have a shocking confession. During my years in the military and as a hunter I have had numerous occasions to use makeup. Many are the time my fellow Marines and I worried “if our makeup looked right”. Sometimes patrol preparations looked and sounded like the girl’s bathroom on prom night. Fortunately my wife is okay with this and has asked me to share some of the basics of makeup application for hunting.

While I would not consider myself to be knowledgeable on the way a woman should apply makeup for a night on the town, I do know the ins and outs of camouflage and camo makeup. Here are the basics:

BAD CAMO PAINT	GOOD CAMO PAINT

1) Blend into the terrain you are hunting. The colors of your skin, clothing, and equipment may help the animals detect you if the colors contrast with the background. For example, a summer or fall real tree pattern will contrast with snow-covered terrain. Camouflage yourself and your equipment to blend with the surroundings. It is very important to take into account the time of year, weather conditions and foliage species of the area being hunted. Avoid excessively straight patterns. A lesson I was taught early on is that there are no straight lines in nature, they stand out.

2) Before camouflaging, study the terrain and vegetation of the area in which you are hunting and remember in different seasons the same terrain and foliage will look different. Then pick and use the camouflage clothing and makeup colors that will best blend with that area.

3) When you are moving from one area to another, you may need to change camouflage to blend with the new surroundings. You can use grass, leaves, brush, and other material from your location and apply it to your clothing and equipment to help conceal yourself. Keep in mind the movement of these items when you are drawing your bow or moving to make the shot. It might give you away if you go overboard on the grass and leaves.

4) Exposed skin reflects light and may draw the animal's attention. Even very dark skin, because of its natural oil, will reflect light. It needs to be covered either by clothing or natural colored makeup. Cover the shiny areas, your forehead, cheekbones, nose, ears, and chin with a dark color. Paint shadow areas, around the eyes, under the nose, and under the chin with a lighter color. Also put it on your lips and neck, they need to blend into the rest of your face.

5) When applying your camouflage work with a hunting buddy and help each other. Keeping in mind the terrain and foliage of the area being hunted, apply a two or three color combination of camouflage in an irregular pattern. There are traditionally 3 methods the blot, the stripe and a combination of the first two. The last is the best in most cases.

6) In addition to the face, cover the exposed skin on the back of the neck, arms, and hands. Use gloves or apply makeup to your hands and arms if uncovered. Doing a great camo job on your face is useless, if the prey sees a pair of little white hands moving. (See Good Camo picture above) Remember you are trying to blend into your surroundings. Check your camo paint at intervals while hunting. Moisture from sweat, snow or rain may cause it to come off.

7) Remove all jewelry to further reduce shine or reflection. Last note but this is a big one, TURN OFF YOUR CELL PHONE OR WATCH WITH THE ALARM OR BEEPER! I have seen several instances when a hunter lost the opportunity due to a wrong number calling.

Practice putting on your camo paint and clothing before you go hunting. It will help when you get to the field if you already have a plan. And remember there is no such thing as perfect camo for every environment. It is continually changing, be aware of your surroundings. A good idea is to have a friend move a distance away and see if they can spot you. It is a learned skill and the more you practice the better you will become. It is also fun!

Why Wear Hunting Clothes
That Fit

It is getting near that time again….Hunting Seasons will start around the country.  The anticipation I have is the same feeling I had when I was a kid and got excited for Santa Clause to bring me great stuff (not coal)!  Now is the time to make sure you have the gear that is going to make your hunting experience comfortable and strategic to offer the best chance of getting that big buck. 

For women being comfortable in the field has been a long time coming in the industry, but finally there are several companies that offer women’s hunting clothes that actually conform to our body types.  In the past, many of us have worn hand-me-downs, kids’ gloves, oversized jackets and men or boys’ pants.  We looked like a rag-a-muffin tromping into the woods, but we were happy to be hunting.  Often, due to the disproportionate fit of our clothes, we were uncomfortable…cold because wind would blow up our jackets, plus there was that Michelin man effect of being so bulky we felt like we couldn’t move…I honestly don’t know how we pull back our bows in all that extra bulk, but we did!  All that is behind us now, at Shoot Like A Girl you can find clothes specifically cut for women from Próis, She Outdoor Apparel, High Maintenance Camo, SportHill, Rocky and Browning.  These manufacturers recognize that women have unique physical needs in the fit of our hunting clothes, and they do fit.  Many come in sizes from XS to XXL.  Not only do these clothes provide comfort, they also look great!

Looking great, however, for a hunter is secondary to the strategic performance of the outfit in the field.  Did you know that deer can rotate their ears to the back their head to listen, and they can see on both sides and to their front?  They can…they’ve heard and seen me lots of times in my rag-a-muffin outfit. That’s why clothes that fit are vital to our hunt.  The snugger the clothes are to our body, the less noise we’ll make.  We can actually turn our head, raise our weapon and shoot without the extra noise from the fabric of clothes that are too big rubbing together.  Deer can see motion, so less bulk also means less movement to be seen.  Hiking and tracking becomes much easier with clothes that fit too!  When clothes fit, and we are on a blood trail through the woods on our hands and knees crawling through the thicket, we won’t get hung up on the branches because of oversized clothing.  This personally has happened to me, and it is frustrating to feel like that kid from A Christmas Story that gets stuck on his back after being knocked down, but no more.  We now have choice in clothes that fit.

At Shoot Like A Girl we are dedicated to empowering women to participate in shooting sports with confidence.  The hunting clothes we carry are just one way we are working to ensure women have the best opportunity for success when we hunt.  Visit our web store.

Top Eleven Tips For Women Getting into the Shooting Sports

By Guides: Niki Atcheson- main interest dangerous game

Brittney Hosmer -main interest birds

LaRee Hensen - main interest archery

1. Do not be intimidated to start.  Get your hunter safety class under your belt.  It’s quick and easy.  Sign up at your local archery or gun club and take some basic NRA courses.  Tell everyone on staff what your goals are.  Everyone will help and you’ll make some great friends and mentors.

   Note: II Ling New runs amazing shooting classes at Gunsite, http://www.gunsite.com or 928-636-4565.

The National Wild Turkey Federation and the NRA have great woman’s programs as well.

2. Sign up for a good magazine in your field of interest and read it. 

   Note:  Diana Rupp is Editor in Chief of Sports Afield magazine and a huntress, http://www.sportsafield.com or 714-373-4910

3. Buy some books to help you learn or be inspired. 

   Note:  Ellen Herring at Trophy Room Books knows more about women hunting and adventure than anyone I’ve ever met, https://www.trophyroombooks.com or  818-889-2469 -  If you mention Shoot Like A Girl, she’ll give you free US postage on any published titles in stock!

4. Pester anyone with your questions until you completely understand.

5. Buy quality equipment.  Never, never ever scrimp on any of your optics!

6. PRACTICE. PRACTICE. PRACTICE!

7. You may find this humorous but…Do not go hunting for the first time with your husband or boyfriend.  Go with a buddy or a professional.  It may save you a fight until you are confident.

8. Get some great wild game cookbooks.  Cooking wild game is different than cooking fatty beef or chicken.  There are tons available just about anywhere. 

9.  For a custom gun builder there are two I know personally who are very pro women and who are experts in fitting us. 

   Note:  Lon Paul with Tanglewood Guns, http://www.lonpaulcustomguns.com or 951-659-2699

   George Sandmann Empire Rifles, http://www.empirerifles.com/Main.htm or 603-469-3152

   For Archery email Karen Butler at Shoot Like A Girl.

10. Once you get going in your sport of choice take the time to mentor another woman or girl.

11. Most important of all - Starting at a young age, take your kids.  Make it fun and let them pick a sport to try that is age appropriate.  A little archery in the back yard or range, some fishing at the local creek or a BB gun at the range is a great way to start them off and have quality time with mom.

Lastly if you need help finding women friendly companies to hunt with call Niki or Keith at Jack Atcheson and Sons.  Even if you just have questions about a trip you already have booked we’re happy to help.  You would be surprised how many women are actually in these fields as well. Our # is 406-782-2382.

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